Sorato Anraku Chases Historic Sweep as 2026 Climbing World Cup Hits Midseason
Japanese teenager Sorato Anraku has won four consecutive Boulder World Cup golds, while Janja Garnbret balances her pursuit of a 50th career gold with historic outdoor ascents.
By Factlen Editorial Team
- Team Japan Supporters
- Focused on the unprecedented depth and dominance of the Japanese men's team.
- The New Guard Advocates
- Celebrating the rising parity and new challengers in the women's division.
- Outdoor Purists
- Valuing historic ascents on real rock over competition medals.
What's not represented
- · Speed climbing specialists whose season runs parallel but gets less mainstream coverage
- · Route setters who design the boulders that dictate the standings
Why this matters
The 2026 season is witnessing a generational changing of the guard in sport climbing. As Anraku sets unprecedented win streaks in the men's division, the women's circuit is seeing rising stars finally challenge long-standing champions, elevating the sport's competitive ceiling.
Key points
- 19-year-old Sorato Anraku has won all four Men's Boulder World Cup events in 2026, an unprecedented streak.
- Anraku's latest victory in Prague keeps him on track to sweep the entire Boulder season.
- Janja Garnbret is chasing her 50th career World Cup gold but faces fierce competition from rising stars like Zélia Avezou and Annie Sanders.
- Garnbret recently became the first woman to climb the 9b+ outdoor route 'Bibliographie', proving her dominance extends beyond competition plastic.
The 2026 World Climbing Series—formerly known as the IFSC World Cup—has officially reached its midseason turning point, and the international standings are being defined by a mix of unprecedented dominance and thrilling generational battles. Across the globe, from the opening rounds in China to the packed outdoor arenas of Europe, the story dominating the circuit is 19-year-old Japanese phenom Sorato Anraku. The teenager is currently executing one of the most flawless runs in the history of men's competition climbing, leaving veteran champions and rising stars alike scrambling for silver as he continuously tops the podium.[1]
Anraku's momentum has been building since his rookie season, but his 2026 campaign has entered historic territory. He has taken gold in all four Men's Boulder events contested so far this year—sweeping the podiums in Keqiao, Bern, Madrid, and most recently in Prague. According to series statisticians, never before has a male climber won four successive gold medals in the World Cup series in a single season. His ability to consistently solve complex, high-risk boulder problems under the pressure of a ticking clock has left the rest of the field mathematically trailing by a massive margin.[1][3]
The recent final in Prague perfectly encapsulated Anraku's competitive composure. Facing fierce competition from South Korea's Dohyun Lee and France's Mejdi Schalck, Anraku found himself trailing early. Schalck was the quickest out of the blocks, flashing the first boulder to take an immediate advantage. However, as the round progressed into highly technical slab climbs, Anraku's consistency shone through. He secured the necessary zones and flashed the final boulder to snatch the victory with a final score of 55 points, edging out Lee's 54.8 and Schalck's 54.7 in a nail-biting finish.[1][4]

With four golds already secured, Anraku is now on track to equal Janja Garnbret's legendary record of winning every single event in a discipline's annual series. The pressure of a perfect season is notoriously heavy, often causing athletes to falter in the later rounds as media attention intensifies, but the Japanese teenager remains remarkably unfazed by the historical stakes. "I know the record, but I don't care so much," Anraku told reporters after his victory in Czechia, shrugging off the weight of expectations. "I just love competing."[1][2]
While Anraku has effectively locked down the men's Boulder standings, the women's circuit is experiencing a thrilling and long-awaited shakeup. Slovenian icon Janja Garnbret, widely considered the greatest competition climber of all time, entered the 2026 season hunting for her milestone 50th World Cup gold medal. However, unlike previous years where her victories were almost a foregone conclusion, Garnbret is now facing the stiffest competition of her career from a rising generation of fearless young climbers eager to claim the top spot.[2][6]
While Anraku has effectively locked down the men's Boulder standings, the women's circuit is experiencing a thrilling and long-awaited shakeup.
The first signs of this shifting tide appeared at the season opener in Keqiao, China, where France's Zélia Avezou shocked the field by surpassing Garnbret to take the gold medal. The momentum continued in Prague, where American teenager Annie Sanders put on a masterclass performance. Sanders not only won the women's Boulder event but also set herself up for a rare "Prague Double" by dominating the Lead climbing semifinals alongside Indonesia's Tri Ramadani, proving that the women's field is deeper and more competitive than ever before.[2][4]

Garnbret's slight dip in World Cup dominance, however, comes with a massive caveat: she has been dividing her focus between the plastic competition walls and real rock. Just days before the Prague event, Garnbret made international headlines by traveling to Céüse, France, and successfully climbing the legendary route 'Bibliographie'. Graded at a staggering 9b+ (5.15c), the route is considered one of the most difficult sport climbs on the planet, demanding immense finger strength, flawless technique, and weeks of dedicated projecting.[5]
This historic outdoor ascent makes Garnbret only the second woman in history to confirm a 9b+ sport climb, proving that her physical peak extends far beyond the confines of the World Cup circuit. The achievement required a completely different mindset than the rapid-fire, five-minute rounds of competition bouldering. "I'm a very impatient person. I want everything now," Garnbret admitted after the grueling outdoor project, noting that the route forced her to cultivate a new level of patience and long-term focus that she hopes will translate back to her competition climbing.[5]

As the 2026 season transitions from the short, powerful sequences of Bouldering into the endurance-heavy Lead climbing events, the standings race will only intensify. The upcoming stops in Innsbruck, Austria, and Chamonix, France, will test the stamina of the boulderers as they switch to the towering 15-meter walls. Athletes who specialize in Lead will finally have their chance to climb the rankings, potentially disrupting the current leaderboards and setting up dramatic finishes for the combined season titles.[1]
The shift to the Lead season also marks the return of veteran stars to their preferred discipline, adding another layer of intrigue to the standings. In Prague, Czech climbing legend Adam Ondra thrilled his home crowd by advancing to the Lead finals. Ondra, who has openly stated he is stepping back from Bouldering competitions, proved that the "old guard" can still compete at the highest level, drawing massive cheers as he navigated the complex headwall and secured his spot among the new generation of teenagers.[4]

With the Asian Games looming in September and the World Cup finale scheduled for Santiago, Chile, in late October, the second half of the 2026 season is shaping up to be a landmark period for the sport. Whether Sorato Anraku completes his unprecedented perfect sweep, or Janja Garnbret finally secures her 50th gold medal while pushing the boundaries of outdoor climbing, the sport is undeniably reaching new heights of global parity, athletic achievement, and mainstream recognition.[1][6]
How we got here
May 3, 2026
Sorato Anraku wins the season opener in Keqiao, China; Zélia Avezou upsets Janja Garnbret.
May 24, 2026
Anraku takes his second gold in Bern, Switzerland, as the only climber to top all four boulders.
May 30, 2026
Anraku secures a third consecutive gold in Madrid, Spain.
June 5, 2026
Anraku wins his fourth gold in Prague; Annie Sanders takes the women's Boulder title.
June 6, 2026
Janja Garnbret becomes the first woman to climb the 9b+ route 'Bibliographie' in France.
Viewpoints in depth
Team Japan Supporters
Fans and analysts focused on the unprecedented depth and dominance of the Japanese men's team.
For followers of Japanese climbing, Anraku's sweep is the culmination of a national development system that has steadily taken over the sport. They point out that in events like Keqiao, Japanese athletes often occupy half the semifinal spots. To this camp, Anraku isn't an anomaly, but the vanguard of a roster that includes stars like Tomoa Narasaki and Sohta Amagasa, proving that Japan's technical, coordination-heavy training environment is the current gold standard.
The New Guard Advocates
Those celebrating the rising parity and new challengers in the women's division.
This perspective is thrilled by the emergence of climbers like Zélia Avezou and Annie Sanders. For years, Janja Garnbret's dominance was so absolute that the race was often for second place. Advocates for the new guard argue that having teenagers consistently push Garnbret off the top of the podium is exactly what the sport needs to grow its audience and force the route setters to create even more challenging, dynamic problems.
Outdoor Purists
Climbers who value historic ascents on real rock over competition medals.
To the traditional climbing community, World Cup plastic is secondary to pushing the limits of human potential on real rock. This camp views Garnbret's ascent of the 9b+ 'Bibliographie' as the true headline of 2026, arguing that outdoor grades are the permanent historical record of the sport. They celebrate athletes who can balance the highly specific demands of indoor coordination boulders with the raw endurance required for world-class outdoor crags.
What we don't know
- Whether Sorato Anraku can maintain his perfect streak through the remainder of the Boulder season.
- How the shift from Bouldering to Lead climbing will affect the overall combined standings.
- If Janja Garnbret will secure her 50th World Cup gold medal before the season concludes in October.
Key terms
- Flash
- Completing a boulder problem or lead route on the very first attempt without falling.
- Zone
- A designated hold midway up a boulder problem that awards partial points if a climber controls it but cannot reach the top.
- Lead climbing
- A discipline where athletes climb a tall, 15-meter wall with a rope, clipping into quickdraws as they ascend; the highest hold reached determines the score.
- 9b+ (5.15c)
- One of the most difficult grades in outdoor sport climbing, achieved by only a handful of climbers in history.
Frequently asked
What is the World Climbing Series?
Formerly known as the IFSC World Cup, it is the premier annual international circuit for competitive sport climbing, featuring Boulder, Lead, and Speed disciplines.
Has anyone ever won every Boulder event in a season?
Yes, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret previously won every event in a single discipline's season. Sorato Anraku is currently on track to equal that feat in the men's division.
Why is Janja Garnbret's outdoor climb significant?
Her ascent of 'Bibliographie' makes her the first woman to climb that specific route and only the second woman in history to confirm a climb at the 9b+ difficulty level.
Sources
[1]World ClimbingTeam Japan Supporters
Never before has a male climber won four successive gold medals
Read on World Climbing →[2]Olympics.comTeam Japan Supporters
World Climbing Series Keqiao 2026: Anraku Sorato starts Boulder season with confident win
Read on Olympics.com →[3]Gripped MagazineTeam Japan Supporters
Sorato Anraku Wins Second Boulder World Cup of 2026
Read on Gripped Magazine →[4]World Climbing Series PragueThe New Guard Advocates
Anraku and Sanders Confirm Their Form in the Lead Semis
Read on World Climbing Series Prague →[5]Red BullOutdoor Purists
Janja Garnbret becomes first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+)
Read on Red Bull →[6]Slovenia OutdoorOutdoor Purists
IFSC World Cup Koper 2026
Read on Slovenia Outdoor →
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