Luxury Market Normalizes as Kering Profits Drop 50% Amid Shift to 'Quiet Luxury'
A severe profit slump across major luxury conglomerates is forcing the industry to abandon unjustified price hikes. The market correction is empowering consumers who increasingly favor quality, sustainability, and resale over logo-driven hype.
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The global luxury fashion market, which enjoyed an unprecedented boom during the post-pandemic years, is undergoing a severe structural correction. Kering, the French conglomerate behind Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga, recently reported a staggering 50 percent drop in net profit for the first half of the year.[1][7]
This is not an isolated incident. Across the sector, industry titans are facing a stark reality check. LVMH, the world's largest luxury group, has seen its fashion and leather goods division suffer pronounced earnings misses, while its market capitalization has contracted significantly from its 2023 peak.[4][5]
For consumers, however, this corporate crisis signals a long-overdue market normalization. The era of relentless price hikes and logo-driven hype is giving way to a landscape where brands must actually earn their premium price tags through tangible quality and longevity.[1][3]
To understand the mechanism behind the slump, one must look at the "aspirational consumer"—the middle-to-upper-income shopper who historically drove the bulk of luxury volume. Between 2019 and 2025, many luxury houses aggressively raised prices by up to 50 percent, attempting to elevate their brand positioning and offset inflation.[3]
This strategy effectively priced the aspirational buyer out of the market. As macroeconomic pressures mounted and inflation squeezed discretionary income, these consumers simply stopped buying entry-level luxury items like wallets, belts, and canvas sneakers.[2][8]
The data bears this out: the luxury sector shrank its active customer base by an estimated 20 million shoppers in recent years. Brands that relied heavily on this demographic, such as Gucci, have been disproportionately affected, with the Italian house experiencing double-digit revenue declines for multiple consecutive quarters.[2][3][7]
Simultaneously, a profound shift in consumer values is rewriting the rules of desirability. Generation MZ (Millennials and Gen Z) are increasingly rejecting the conspicuous consumption that defined the previous decade.[4]
Instead, these younger affluent buyers are gravitating toward "quiet luxury"—understated, logo-free garments that emphasize superior fabrics and tailoring over overt branding. They are demanding that products justify their cost through craftsmanship rather than mere brand association.[1]
Furthermore, sustainability and circularity have moved from niche interests to primary purchasing drivers. The booming resale market offers consumers access to high-quality vintage pieces at a fraction of the cost of new retail, fundamentally altering how younger demographics build their wardrobes.[3]
This secondary market not only satisfies the desire for sustainable shopping but also exposes the artificial inflation of primary market prices. When a consumer can purchase a gently used designer handbag for significantly less than its current retail price, the brand's primary value proposition is challenged.[1][3]
In response to this existential threat, luxury conglomerates are being forced into sweeping operational overhauls. Kering's new CEO, Luca de Meo, recently unveiled "ReconKering," a strategic roadmap designed to pivot the company from volume-driven expansion to disciplined desirability.[3][7]
This restructuring involves reducing wholesale exposure, optimizing store networks, and divesting non-core assets, such as the recent $4.4 billion sale of Kering's beauty division to L'Oréal. The goal is to streamline operations and refocus resources on elevating core product quality.[4][8]
Gucci, the engine of Kering's profitability, is at the center of this reset. The brand is attempting to pivot away from its previous eclectic aesthetic toward a more refined, timeless architecture, though analysts warn that turning around a brand of this scale is a multi-year endeavor.[1][2]
The challenge lies in re-engaging the alienated aspirational consumer while simultaneously catering to the ultra-wealthy clients who now account for an outsized portion of industry growth.[3]
Brands like Hermès, which maintained strict scarcity and controlled distribution throughout the boom years, have weathered the storm more effectively. Their focus on ultra-high-end clientele and uncompromising craftsmanship has insulated them from the volatility of the aspirational market.[3][5]
Ultimately, the current luxury crisis is a necessary correction that empowers the modern consumer. The days of brands dictating terms and prices without corresponding leaps in quality are over.[1]
Key points
- Kering reported a 50% drop in first-half net profit, reflecting a broader crisis in the luxury sector.
- Brands raised prices by up to 50% since 2019, pricing out the 'aspirational consumer' and shrinking the customer base by 20 million.
- Younger consumers are shifting toward 'quiet luxury' and the resale market, prioritizing sustainability over logos.
- Conglomerates are restructuring to focus on true craftsmanship and ultra-wealthy clients, ending the era of volume-driven hype.
Unanswered questions
- Whether the ultra-wealthy demographic alone is large enough to sustain the massive operational footprints of conglomerates like Kering and LVMH.
- If Gucci's pivot to a more timeless, refined aesthetic under new creative direction will successfully win back alienated consumers.
How we got here
2019 - 2023
Luxury brands aggressively raise prices by up to 50%, capitalizing on post-pandemic revenge spending.
Late 2023
Aspirational consumers begin pulling back, triggering consecutive quarters of revenue decline for major houses like Gucci.
July 2024
Kering reports an initial 50% drop in net profit, signaling the start of a deep structural crisis.
September 2025
Luca de Meo takes over as Kering CEO to implement sweeping operational overhauls.
April 2026
Kering unveils the 'ReconKering' strategy, pivoting from volume expansion to disciplined desirability.
July 2026
The luxury sector officially shrinks its active customer base by 20 million, cementing a new era of 'quiet luxury' and resale.
- Aspirational Consumers
- Alienated by unjustified price hikes, they are shifting spending to the secondary market and prioritizing true value over brand names.
- Luxury Conglomerates
- Scrambling to restructure operations, they are pivoting away from volume growth to target ultra-high-net-worth individuals.
- Industry Analysts
- Viewing the downturn as a permanent structural correction rather than a temporary cyclical dip.
Perspectives this story doesn't cover
- Independent Artisans
- Garment Workers
Sources
[1]The Fashion LawAspirational ConsumersKering Reports Sharp Decline in H1 Revenue as Luxury Demand Softens
[2]Financial TimesLuxury ConglomeratesSales at French luxury group Kering plunged in the first quarter
Read on Financial Times →
[3]Across MagazineLuxury ConglomeratesKering Resets Strategy as Gucci Struggles and Luxury Market Slows
[4]Economy.acLuxury ConglomeratesGucci Profitability Erosion and Debt Overhang Drive Kering Asset Sales
[5]GlossyAspirational ConsumersThe luxury fashion industry, once a beacon of resilience, is facing increasing headwinds
[6]Luxury TribuneIndustry AnalystsKering group unveiled worrying results for the first half
[7]FutunnIndustry AnalystsSignificant decline in profitability for Kering Group
[8]NSS MagazineIndustry AnalystsKering issues new profit warning due to drastic slowdown
Read on NSS Magazine →
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