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Power rankingIFSC World Cup· event dated May 2, 2026· 4 min read· in Sports

2026 Sport Climbing Power Rankings: Anraku Chases History as Sanders Dominates

Halfway through the 2026 season, Sorato Anraku is on the verge of a historic bouldering sweep, while a volatile women's field sees Annie Sanders and Erin McNeice battling for the top spot.

By Omar Haddad

Coaches & Competitors 40%Data-Driven Analysts 35%International Fandom 25%
Coaches & Competitors
Analyzes the technical execution, route-reading efficiency, and physiological demands of the climbs.
Data-Driven Analysts
Focuses on the historic statistical anomalies of the season, such as Anraku's win streak and scoring margins.
International Fandom
Celebrates the national pride, breakout underdog stories, and the sheer entertainment value of the events.

Perspectives this story doesn't cover

  • Route Setters
  • Sports Psychologists

How we got here

  1. May 3, 2026

    Zélia Avezou stuns Janja Garnbret to win the season opener in Keqiao.

  2. May 29, 2026

    Erin McNeice tops all four boulders to win a commanding gold in Madrid.

  3. June 6, 2026

    Sorato Anraku secures a historic fourth consecutive boulder gold in Prague.

  4. June 7, 2026

    Annie Sanders claims the Prague boulder title, adding to her lead gold from Wujiang.

The halfway point of the 2026 IFSC World Climbing Series has arrived, and the narrative has decisively shifted from veteran dominance to a youth takeover. Across both the bouldering and lead disciplines, a new generation of athletes is not just winning events, but fundamentally raising the technical ceiling of the sport.

The sport has never seen a men's bouldering streak quite like the one currently unfolding. Nineteen-year-old Japanese phenom Sorato Anraku is rewriting the record books in real-time, dismantling fields with a mix of quiet focus and explosive power.

Following a dramatic victory in the Czech Republic on June 6, Anraku became the first male climber in the history of the World Climbing Series to win four consecutive boulder titles in a single season.

His unprecedented run—spanning victories in Keqiao, Bern, Madrid, and now Prague—has put him on course for a mythical clean sweep of the circuit. It is a feat previously achieved only by Slovenian legend Janja Garnbret on the women's side.

Sorato Anraku's unprecedented four-event winning streak in the 2026 season.

The Prague final perfectly encapsulated Anraku's current form and resilience. In a low-scoring, highly technical final round, he was forced to edge out South Korea's Lee Do-hyun and France's Mejdi Schalck in a grueling battle of attrition.

Schalck made the strongest initial statement by flashing the opening boulder, while Anraku and Lee managed only the zone. However, momentum violently shifted on the third problem when Anraku and Lee both reached the top, leaving Schalck behind.

The contest came down to the final slab boulder. Needing only a clean zone on a style he later admitted was not his favorite, Anraku delivered on his first attempt to seal the gold medal with exactly 55.0 points.

While the men's bouldering circuit has become the Anraku show, the women's power rankings are far more volatile, defined by a thrilling, multi-athlete battle for supremacy.

American teenager Annie Sanders currently holds the title of the circuit's most dangerous all-around threat. She has proven her immense versatility by winning the lead event in Wujiang, China, before transitioning back to bouldering to claim gold in Prague.

The women's circuit has seen fierce competition and multiple lead changes throughout the season.
American teenager Annie Sanders currently holds the title of the circuit's most dangerous all-around threat.

In the Prague final, Sanders effectively secured her victory early. She became the only finalist to top the opening boulder, giving her the crucial margin needed to survive a dramatic finish where she edged out her closest rival by a mere two-tenths of a point.

That rival is Great Britain's Erin McNeice, who is enjoying a spectacular breakout season of her own. The 22-year-old from Chesterfield captured her second World Climbing Series victory in Madrid in late May.[1][3]

McNeice's Madrid performance was a masterclass in composure and endurance; she was the only woman to top all four boulder problems in the final, finishing with a commanding 99.1 points and leaving the crowd in disbelief.[1]

The women's field has also been defined by historic, unexpected upsets this year. In the season opener in Keqiao, France's Zélia Avezou stunned the climbing world by surpassing Olympic champion Janja Garnbret to secure her first career boulder gold.[2]

Podium margins in the women's division have frequently come down to fractions of a point.

This unprecedented depth of talent means the women's podium is entirely unpredictable from week to week. Climbers like Australia's Oceania Mackenzie are consistently threatening the top spots, proving that no lead is safe.[2]

Meanwhile, the lead climbing season is just getting underway, and early results suggest a similar shakeup is coming to the men's endurance division.

In the Prague lead qualifiers, 20-year-old Indonesian climber Putra Tri Ramadani delivered the shock of the weekend. Ramadani, whose previous best World Cup finish was sixth, delivered two incredibly consistent climbs.

The lead climbing season is introducing new endurance challenges and breakout stars.

He managed to narrowly edge out Anraku for the top spot in the qualification round. This breakthrough signals Indonesia's rapidly expanding prowess in the sport, proving they are developing elite talent beyond their traditional dominance in speed climbing.

As the circuit prepares to move into the second half of the summer, the central questions are clear: Can anyone break Anraku's historic streak, and who will emerge victorious in the fiercely contested women's division?

For fans and analysts alike, the 2026 season is serving as a thrilling preview of the sport's long-term future. The athletes currently topping the power rankings are proving that the limits of human grip, balance, and coordination have yet to be found.[3]

Key points

  • Japan's Sorato Anraku has won four consecutive boulder golds, a first for any male climber in a single season.
  • American Annie Sanders is proving to be a dual-threat, winning gold in both lead and bouldering events.
  • Great Britain's Erin McNeice captured a dominant victory in Madrid, topping all four final boulders.
  • Indonesian climber Putra Tri Ramadani delivered a massive upset by winning the men's lead qualification in Prague.
4
Consecutive boulder golds for Sorato Anraku
55.0
Anraku's winning point total in Prague
99.1
Erin McNeice's dominant Madrid score
0.2
Point margin between Sanders and McNeice in Prague

Sources

Source coverage

3 outlets

3 viewpoints surfaced

Coaches & Competitors 40%Data-Driven Analysts 35%International Fandom 25%
  1. [1]Olympics.comData-Driven Analysts

    World Climbing Series Comunidad de Madrid 2026: Erin McNiece tops Boulder final with gutsy final climb

    Read on Olympics.com →
  2. [2]IFSC OfficialCoaches & Competitors

    AVEZOU WINS FIRST BOULDER GOLD

    Read on IFSC Official →
  3. [3]UK ClimbingInternational Fandom

    Erin McNeice Takes Historic Gold in Madrid

    Read on UK Climbing →

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