Glenn Martens Exits Diesel After Six Years to Focus on Maison Margiela

Glenn Martens is officially stepping down as the creative director of Diesel, closing a six-year chapter that completely rewired the Italian denim label. Following the presentation of his Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2026, the 43-year-old Belgian designer will redirect his undivided attention to Maison Margiela. Parent company OTB Group confirmed the departure on September 18, marking the end of an era that brought Diesel back to the absolute epicenter of the global fashion dialogue.[1][2][4]

When Martens took the creative helm in October 2020, he inherited a 1978-born brand that had lost its cultural urgency. He immediately set about transforming humble denim into a canvas for radical, subversive experimentation. His runway spectacles became monumental, anti-elitist events. At his final show, bathed in red light, models planted in the stands began moaning in sexual revelry to the soundtrack of "Love to Love You Baby," while the runway featured knitwear that appeared to disintegrate into denim and leather.[2][3][4]

The creative overhaul was accompanied by a massive financial turnaround. By 2025, OTB Group reported a total turnover of €1.7 billion and an EBITDA of €237.3 million, with Diesel achieving its best profitability in a decade. "He has transformed the way the brand is perceived," said Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel and chairman of OTB Group. Rosso noted that Martens succeeded in "forging a strong connection with younger generations and creating a solid foundation for its future," while preserving the label's core accessibility.[2][5]

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Martens developed a distinctive visual language built around treated denim, distorted silhouettes, and trompe l'oeil techniques that gave flat surfaces the three-dimensional illusion of luxe shearling. His Fall/Winter 2026 collection drew from the aftermath of a night out, featuring permanent creases and distressed treatments. He stretched, acid-washed, and peeled fabrics, proving that high design could coexist with broad cultural democracy. His previous shows featured giant inflatable figures and a set incorporating 200,000 boxes of Durex condoms.[3]

The departure narrows a workload that expanded considerably when Martens was appointed creative director of Maison Margiela in January 2025, succeeding John Galliano after his decade-long run at the French luxury house. He unveiled his inaugural Artisanal collection for Margiela at Paris Haute Couture Week in July 2025. Maison Margiela emerged as one of OTB's stronger performers that year, with sales climbing 8.4%.[1][2][5]

Before his dual roles at OTB, Martens spent 11 years at the Paris-based label Y/Project, stepping away in 2024. His ability to blend twisted denim constructions with pop aesthetics successfully captured the attention and spending power of Gen Z shoppers. At Diesel, he introduced the 'Denim Library'—a core collection of classics designed to carry over from season to season, ensuring the brand's irreverent hedonism remained accessible.[4]

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OTB Group has not yet named a successor to take over Diesel's creative direction, stating only that the next chapter will be announced in due course. The company recently appointed Andrea Rigogliosi as Chief Executive Officer in January 2026 to help steer the brand's expanded network of directly operated stores, including new flagship openings in Berlin and Seoul.[1][2][5]

Martens leaves Diesel not with a fading trend, but with a proven method for productive disruption. The Spring/Summer 2027 collection stands as the final checkpoint of his tenure, leaving the incoming creative director with a highly profitable, culturally potent framework. The focus now shifts entirely to Paris, where Martens will continue to push the boundaries of deconstruction and transformation at Maison Margiela.[1][2]