Veddriq Leonardo's Emotional Chamonix Victory Ignites the 2026 Men's Speed Title Race
The 2024 Olympic champion returned from a prolonged injury layoff to capture his first gold medal since Paris, defeating younger teammate Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi and shaking up the World Climbing Series standings.
By Meera Iyer
- Indonesian Climbing Federation
- Celebrating a triumphant return and generational depth.
- International Competitors
- Bracing for a highly contested second half of the season.
- Series Analysts
- Highlighting the broader narrative of the 2026 season and the tightening championship race.
At a glance
- Veddriq Leonardo won gold at the Chamonix stop of the 2026 World Climbing Series.
- The victory marks his first gold medal since the 2024 Paris Olympics following injury struggles.
- Leonardo defeated his younger Indonesian teammate Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi in the final.
- The win disrupts the early-season dominance of the Chinese speed climbing team.
- The men's speed title race is now wide open heading into the final four events.
- 4.89s
- Leonardo's gold-medal time
- 5.11s
- Al Hilmi's silver-medal time
- 4.701s
- Omasa's bronze-medal time
- 0.003s
- Margin between bronze and fourth place
Why it matters now
Veddriq Leonardo's return from injury disrupts the Chinese team's early-season dominance and blows the 2026 Men's Speed title race wide open. With only four events remaining, the battle for the overall championship now features a direct clash between the reigning Olympic champion and the current world record holders.
The 2026 Men's Speed title race just received a massive jolt of adrenaline. After battling a string of injuries that kept him off the top of the podium since his historic gold at the 2024 Paris Olympics, Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo announced his return to form with a blistering victory at the World Climbing Series in Chamonix, France.[1][3]
The victory fundamentally reshapes the second half of the 2026 season. Prior to Chamonix, the men's speed standings had been heavily dictated by the Chinese national team, with athletes like Jianguo Long and world record holder Zhao Yicheng commanding the early stops. Leonardo's resurgence proves the veteran is ready to challenge for the overall crown.[2][3]
"I feel great. I feel grateful. It's my first gold medal after the Olympics and it's taken a long time to get it," Leonardo told reporters following the final. The emotion was palpable for the 29-year-old, who admitted he had barely been able to train properly on the wall leading up to the European leg of the tour.[1][3]

The Chamonix final was a showcase of Indonesian depth, pitting Leonardo against his younger compatriot, Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi. Al Hilmi, who captured gold at the 2025 SEA Games in Thailand, had been turning heads all weekend with his consistency and explosive starts.[1][4]
In the decisive race, experience won out. Leonardo exploded off the starting pad to strike the buzzer in 4.89 seconds, while Al Hilmi finished with a highly respectable 5.11 seconds to secure the silver medal. The 1-2 finish cemented Indonesia's status as a speed climbing powerhouse on the global stage.[1][2]
Leonardo exploded off the starting pad to strike the buzzer in 4.89 seconds, while Al Hilmi finished with a highly respectable 5.11 seconds to secure the silver medal.
Leonardo's path to the gold was arguably more impressive than the final itself. To reach the top of the podium, the former world record holder had to navigate a brutal knockout bracket that included eliminating the United States' Samuel Watson and current world record holder Zhao Yicheng in head-to-head matchups.[2][3]

The bronze medal race provided its own drama, with Japan's Ryo Omasa edging out Zhao in a photo finish. Omasa clocked a 4.701, beating the Chinese star by a razor-thin margin of just three-thousandths of a second to claim the final spot on the podium.[1]
The men's result capped off a perfect weekend for the Indonesian contingent. Earlier in the competition, Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi captured gold in the women's speed event, securing her second consecutive World Climbing Series victory following a win in Krakow and completing an Indonesian sweep of the speed disciplines.[2][3]
With the European leg concluding, the World Climbing Series now shifts its focus to a critical stretch of events in Asia. Stops in Koper, Guiyang, and Chongqing will serve as the ultimate proving ground before the season finale in Santiago, Chile.[5]

For Leonardo, the Chamonix gold is more than just a single victory—it is a declaration that the race for the 2026 overall title is wide open. As the tour heads toward its climax, the battle between the resurgent Indonesian veteran and the formidable Chinese squad promises to be one of the most compelling narratives in the sport.[2][5]
Terms to know
- World Climbing Series
- The premier international competition circuit for sport climbing, formerly known as the IFSC Climbing World Cup before a 2025 rebranding.
- Speed Climbing
- A head-to-head discipline where athletes race up a standardized 15-meter overhanging wall.
- Knockout Bracket
- The elimination phase of a speed climbing competition where athletes race in pairs, with the winner advancing to the next round.
- Buzzer
- The electronic timing pad at the top of the speed wall that athletes must strike to stop the clock.
The backstory
August 2024
Veddriq Leonardo wins the first-ever Olympic gold medal in men's speed climbing at the Paris Games.
December 2025
Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi captures gold at the SEA Games in Thailand, signaling the rise of Indonesia's next generation.
May 2026
The 2026 World Climbing Series opens, with Chinese athletes initially dominating the men's speed standings.
July 2026
Leonardo returns from injury to win gold in Chamonix, defeating Al Hilmi in an all-Indonesian final.
Different angles
Indonesian Climbing Federation
Celebrating a triumphant return and generational depth.
For the Indonesian camp, Chamonix represented the best-case scenario. Not only did their Olympic champion prove he can still win at the highest level despite a grueling injury rehab, but the silver medal performance by Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi confirmed that their development pipeline remains elite. The federation views this 1-2 finish as a massive momentum shift heading into the Asian leg of the tour, proving they have the depth to challenge China's roster.
International Competitors
Bracing for a highly contested second half of the season.
Rival teams, particularly the Chinese squad, now face a much tighter race for the overall series title. With Leonardo back in top form and eliminating heavyweights like Zhao Yicheng and Samuel Watson in head-to-head matchups, the math for the championship has fundamentally changed. Competitors acknowledge that the margin for error has vanished; securing podiums in Koper, Guiyang, and Chongqing will require near-record times as the Indonesian team hits its stride.
Still unresolved
- Whether Veddriq Leonardo's body will hold up through the grueling final four events of the season.
- How the Chinese national team will respond strategically to the Indonesian surge in the upcoming Asian tour stops.
Questions readers ask
Who won the men's speed event at the 2026 Chamonix World Climbing Series?
Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo won the gold medal, defeating his teammate Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi in the final.
What was Veddriq Leonardo's winning time?
Leonardo clocked a time of 4.89 seconds in the final race.
Why is this victory significant for Leonardo?
It marks his first gold medal since winning at the 2024 Paris Olympics, following a prolonged period of injury struggles.
How does this affect the 2026 overall standings?
Leonardo's win disrupts the early-season dominance of the Chinese team and inserts him directly into the race for the overall World Climbing Series title.
Sources
[1]ANTARA NewsIndonesian Climbing Federation
Indonesia secured both the gold and silver medals in the men's speed event at the 2026 World Climbing Series
Read on ANTARA News →[2]XinhuaInternational Competitors
Indonesia sweeps speed climbing titles as Leonardo returns to top in Chamonix
Read on Xinhua →[3]World ClimbingSeries Analysts
GOLDEN DOUBLE DELIGHT FOR INDONESIAN SPEED TEAM
Read on World Climbing →[4]KompasIndonesian Climbing Federation
Robby's love for the discipline has resulted in one of Indonesia's two speed climbing gold medals
Read on Kompas →[5]WikipediaSeries Analysts
2026 World Climbing Series
Read on Wikipedia →[6]Ground NewsSeries Analysts
Indonesia sweeps speed climbing titles as Leonardo returns to top in Chamonix
Read on Ground News →
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