2026 Sport Climbing Injury Report: Bertone, Kerem, and Akhtar Make Triumphant Midseason Returns
As the 2026 IFSC World Cup season reaches its midpoint, several top climbers have successfully navigated injury recoveries to return to the finals stage.
By Factlen Editorial Team
- Sports Physiotherapists
- Advocate for progressive reloading and targeted strength work to build resilience against climbing forces.
- Athletes & Coaches
- Focus on the physical and psychological challenges of returning to high-risk dynamic movements.
- Competition Officials
- Prioritize standardized safety protocols and fair injury-replacement procedures during World Cup events.
What's not represented
- · Recreational climbers who lack access to the elite medical teams utilized by World Cup competitors.
Why this matters
In a sport where a single tweaked tendon or strained shoulder can derail an entire season, the successful rehabilitation of top athletes highlights the evolution of physical therapy in competitive climbing. Their returns demonstrate how modern load management allows climbers to bounce back safely without sacrificing elite performance.
Key points
- France's Oriane Bertone returned from a shoulder injury to place fifth in the Innsbruck Boulder final.
- Israel's Ayala Kerem recovered from a winter injury to secure sixth place at Innsbruck.
- Great Britain's Dayan Akhtar bounced back from an injury absence to finish eighth in Madrid.
- Chronic overuse accounts for roughly 33% to 44% of all sport climbing injuries.
- Modern physical therapy focuses on progressive reloading rather than prolonged rest.
The 2026 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup season has been a grueling test of endurance, demanding peak physical condition across multiple continents. As the circuit reaches its midseason stretch, the physical toll of dynamic bouldering and high-intensity lead climbing has sidelined several competitors. Yet, the story of the summer has not been the injuries themselves, but the remarkable resilience of athletes who have successfully rehabilitated and returned to the wall.
French climbing star Oriane Bertone has delivered one of the most impressive midseason comebacks. During the World Climbing Series event in Prague in early June, Bertone suffered a shoulder injury that forced her to withdraw from the final round. For an athlete who had been in dominant form—having recently sent the 8B+ boulder 'Gecko assis' in Fontainebleau—the setback threatened to derail her momentum.
However, Bertone's absence was brief. Utilizing targeted physical therapy and careful load management, she returned to the mats just weeks later at the highly anticipated World Climbing Series event in Innsbruck. Climbing with visible composure while still managing the lingering effects of the shoulder issue, Bertone navigated a tightly contested semi-final to secure her spot in the top eight.
In the Innsbruck Boulder final, Bertone proved she still possessed elite power and precision. She finished in fifth place with a score of 24.5 points, executing complex coordination moves that tested the stability of her recovering shoulder. Her performance signaled to the rest of the field that she remains a formidable contender for the remainder of the 2026 season.

Bertone is not the only athlete making a triumphant return. Israeli climber Ayala Kerem has also battled back from physical setbacks to reclaim her place among the sport's elite. After dealing with a minor injury during her winter training block, Kerem had to carefully calibrate her early-season schedule to avoid aggravating the issue.[1]
Israeli climber Ayala Kerem has also battled back from physical setbacks to reclaim her place among the sport's elite.
Kerem's patience paid off in the spring when she captured a bronze medal at the World Climbing Europe Series in Kaunas, Lithuania. She carried that renewed confidence into the Innsbruck World Cup, where she matched Bertone move-for-move in the semi-finals. Kerem ultimately finished sixth in the Innsbruck Boulder final with 19.7 points, cementing her status as a consistent finals threat as she builds toward her long-term goal of qualifying for the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics.[1]
On the men's side, Great Britain's Dayan Akhtar showcased similar resilience. A midseason injury forced Akhtar to withdraw from the Boulder World Cup in Bern, Switzerland, interrupting a promising campaign. Rather than rushing his recovery, Akhtar worked with medical staff to ensure his joint stability was fully restored before re-entering the competition circuit.
Akhtar made his return at the World Climbing Series event in Alcobendas, Madrid. Shaking off the competitive rust, he navigated a challenging qualification field to reach the final, ultimately finishing in eighth place. His successful return highlighted the importance of objective strength testing over arbitrary calendar timelines when clearing athletes for competition.[2]

The rapid recoveries of Bertone, Kerem, and Akhtar reflect a broader shift in how the sport handles physical trauma. According to a recent scoping review in the BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine, chronic overuse injuries account for 33% to 44% of all climbing injuries, with the upper limbs bearing the brunt of the damage. In previous eras, climbers often attempted to push through the pain, leading to severe ruptures and season-ending surgeries.[2]
Today, sports physiotherapists emphasize resilience—the ability of the body to tolerate the specific demands of climbing and adapt over time. By incorporating targeted mobility work, antagonist muscle strengthening, and progressive reloading on the wall, modern climbers are recovering faster and returning to competition with a lower risk of re-injury.[2]
As the 2026 IFSC season transitions toward the Lead climbing events and the upcoming World Championships, the health of the athlete roster will remain a decisive factor. For climbers like Bertone, Kerem, and Akhtar, their successful midseason rehabilitations have not only salvaged their current campaigns but also provided a blueprint for longevity in an increasingly punishing sport.
How we got here
Winter 2025-2026
Ayala Kerem sustains a minor injury during her off-season training block, delaying her peak preparation.
April 2026
Kerem returns to form, winning a bronze medal at the World Climbing Europe Series in Kaunas.
May 2026
Dayan Akhtar returns from an injury absence to place eighth at the Alcobendas World Cup in Madrid.
Early June 2026
Oriane Bertone suffers a shoulder injury at the Prague World Cup, forcing her to miss the final.
June 18, 2026
Bertone and Kerem both successfully compete in the Innsbruck Boulder final, finishing fifth and sixth respectively.
Viewpoints in depth
Sports Physiotherapists
Medical professionals emphasize structured load management over complete rest.
Climbing-specific physical therapists argue that simply resting an injured joint is rarely sufficient for a safe return to the wall. Instead, they advocate for 'progressive reloading'—gradually exposing the injured tissue to climbing-specific stresses, such as controlled hangs or low-angle slab climbing. This approach ensures that ligaments and tendons rebuild the tensile strength required to handle the extreme forces of competition bouldering without rupturing.
Athletes and Coaches
Competitors focus on the psychological hurdle of trusting an injured limb.
For the climbers themselves, physical healing is only half the battle. Coaches note that athletes returning from shoulder or knee injuries often hesitate before executing dynamic 'dynos' or high-tension heel hooks. Overcoming the fear of re-injury requires mental conditioning and repeated exposure to the movement in a controlled training environment before attempting it under the pressure of a World Cup clock.
What we don't know
- Whether Bertone's shoulder will hold up to the sustained endurance demands of the upcoming Lead climbing season.
- How the condensed 2026 competition schedule will impact injury rates in the second half of the year.
Key terms
- Bouldering
- A discipline of climbing performed on short walls without ropes, requiring powerful, dynamic movements over padded mats.
- Load Management
- The deliberate monitoring and adjustment of an athlete's training volume to prevent tissue overload and overuse injuries.
- Dyno
- A dynamic climbing move where the climber jumps or lunges to reach a distant hold, temporarily losing all contact with the wall.
- Heel Hook
- A technique where a climber uses the heel of their foot to pull or stabilize their body against a hold, placing high stress on the knee and hamstring.
Frequently asked
What injury did Oriane Bertone suffer?
Bertone managed a shoulder injury sustained during the Prague World Cup in early June 2026.
How did Ayala Kerem perform in her return?
After recovering from a winter training injury, Kerem won bronze in Kaunas and placed sixth in the Innsbruck Boulder final.
Why are climbing injuries so common?
The extreme forces placed on isolated joints, particularly the fingers and shoulders, lead to a high rate of chronic overuse injuries in competitive climbing.
Sources
[1]Times of IsraelCompetition Officials
Israeli climber Ayala Kerem in competition
Read on Times of Israel →[2]BMJ Open Sport & Exercise MedicineSports Physiotherapists
Return to climbing after musculoskeletal injury: a scoping review
Read on BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine →
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